December 29, 2016 at 9:16 pm #934dandyfunkParticipant
Greetings! I am new member of the forum and have only been RC sailing for about 1-1/2 years. Being a recent recipient of a DF95 I had reviewed the forum and became aware of the wobbly rudder issue. Sure enough, my DF95 had a loose rudder as described by others. I was concerned about some of the fixes offered, using CA seemed to be a temporary remedy due to the constant rotation of the rudder resulting in wear on the CA either on the rudder post or the rudder log, to whichever the CA was applied, as well as my inability to provide a consistent thickness. As I have learned from previous experience, I can do a lot of damage very quickly using a power tool to open the rudder log from .118 to accept a bushing of .1875 or .197. Fortunately, I found that K & S Metals offers a 3.5 mm OD (.138) x 3.05 mm ID brass tubing that was available on Amazon and Ebay. This tubing provided a good clearance fit for the 3 mm rudder post and and I did not have to open the rudder log much to accept the 3.5 mm OD. I cut the tubing to length then, using a pin vise, I started with a #30 (.128) drill to open the rudder log by hand then used a #29 (.136) drill and finished with a #28 (.140) drill. This provided a snug fit for the 3.5 mm bushing and only had to be lightly tapped into place. I used CA to secure the bushing and then had a small bit of filing to do to get the bushing flush with the deck. I then ran some Corrosion X on a pipe cleaner through the bushing and the rudder has worked well without wobble.
October 8, 2018 at 6:42 pm #2859Leon LanceMember
Thanks for sharing, Dan
DF 95 USA 791 & 2177
Austin Yacht Club
October 10, 2018 at 4:58 pm #2862John RoyMember
Anyone have info on putting on the decal set to change the color?
October 10, 2018 at 5:09 pm #2863Leon LanceMember
Yessir they are super and easy…..
IF…you saturate the area with Windex,
apply and slide the decal into position.
remove bubbles with fingers or credit card let dry.
Your done super easy
you cant use too much Windex
November 13, 2018 at 4:36 pm #3013kaerleParticipant
I have gone through the whole gamut to solve the wobbly rudder problem. Trust me, you do not want to go through re-sleeving the rudder posts you suggest. I tried that. I got a perfect fit and was pretty smug about it. I then looked at the alignment of the newly place rudder with the keel. It was about 5-10 degrees out of alignment. The boat would never sail true like that. If you try replacing the rudder post, it is very, very, difficult to get it in perfect alignment with the keel. I ended up replacing the hull.
I found, by far, the simplest and easiest solution. It takes about 30 seconds to do. simply remove the rudder, insert a length of rigging line through the post hole, add a few drops of lubricant and replace the rudder. Of course the ends of the line that stick out above and below the post hole need to be clipped. Have a variety of different diameter line on hand to get the best fit. Do not make the fit tight! It will cause resistance and burn out the rudder servo prematurely (that happened to me too). The line acts like a shim and it maintains the alignment of the rudder with the keel.
Very simple and very easy to do and it works like a charm.
November 4, 2019 at 10:21 pm #9646Larry LefczikMember
Do any of these solutions conform to the class rules?
February 9, 2020 at 2:45 pm #10595Luv2SailMember
I noticed my wobbly rudder after a few months of sailing. It’s most visible during downwind runs in puffs. On land, I measured the distance. The bottom of my rudder deflects 10mm to port and to starboard or 20mm of total wobble. I’d like to see this fixed. However, is a fix or the problem consistent with manufacturing and the class one-design specs?
For these reasons, I’m not inclined to invest time trying to repair a wobbly rudder. It seems unnecessary for a RTR one-design boat? I submit we need input from our manufacturing and class leaders. Don’t shoot the messenger, plz. Thank you!
February 21, 2020 at 7:02 am #10806ChrisParticipant
I have found 0.8mm 80# line to work best for my mis-fit. To deal with servo/tightness issues I thoroughly worked teflon trailer ball lubricant into the line.
I trimmed it close as possible to the hull bottom and then pulled it up 1mm. I leave 1cm visible in the “cockpit” so I know if it is still there or has migrated up or down
February 25, 2020 at 10:29 pm #10880Luv2SailMember
Chuck from Dragon Sailing NA posted a possible manufacturer fix on Facebook, February 12th. I guess we’ll have to wait and see if it happens and/or gets posted here too. Unfortunate that this forum appears to be idle or dead. There’s a lot of good information, resources and tips that are easy to find here, unlike FB. Respectfully submitted.
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